After aerating, we took a specific gravity reading by filling a test tube and using a hydrometer. Another way a distiller might do this is by dropping a bit onto a refractometer collection plate and taking a refractometer reading. Aeration is critically important. Yeast need oxygen to survive. Without aeration fermentation could fail and the yeast won't do anything. The specific gravity reading is used to determine potential starting alcohol. Basically, it allows one to determine how much alcohol will be in the wash if everything goes well during fermentation.
After fermentation, another reading will be taken to determine actual alcohol content of the wash. Both readings are needed to calculate this number. After aerating and taking a specific gravity reading, we added the entire contents of our yeast starter to the mash. Finally, we transferred our mash to a fermentation vessel. The last step of the mashing process is fermentation. Once the mash was transferred to the fermenter, we sealed it with an airlock and left it sit for at least 1 week.
A distiller could leave this sit for as many as 3 weeks. If it's still bubbling, it's still fermenting. We left it alone until we didn't see any bubbles. We made our own airlock using a rubber stopper, some clear plastic hose, and some zip ties. We looped the hose a few times and added some sanitizer solution so the very bottom of a few of the loops are full, forcing air to bubble out while not letting any air in.
For a quick tutorial on how a commercial distiller would turn a wash into high proof alcohol, check out How to Distill - Also, make sure to check out our copper still kits before leaving.
I use the foreshot alcohol the first portion to come off that you normally throw away as charcoal lighter.
It works great and does not change the flavor of your food. Have tried this recipe twice and followed to the exact wording.. I would like to know if you carry the brew pot in this blog. If not, can you tell me where you got it? Had to add Knowledge can never be made illegal. I know how to make enhanced nuclear devices.
The purpose of added malted barley is to give the wort the proper enzymes to allow the sugars to turn to alcohol. Your email address will not be published. Indian Head Corn Meal Whiskey. Save Print. Using a darker type of malt gives more flavor and color to the wash, but avoid using roasted or caramel malts as these carry no enzymes necessary to break down the starches.
Leave a Comment Cancel Reply Your email address will not be published. Once the yeast is in the mash simply give it a little stir or shake up the container a little bit. Take your bung and airlock and put it on your fermenter. If you do not have an airlock it is HIGHLY recommended you buy one, they are inexpensive usually around a dollar a piece you can pick one up here. At this point you should have your mash with yeast in a fermenting container with an airlock on it.
Now all you have to do is wait; after weeks fermentation will be complete and no more alcohol will be produced. If you have a hydrometer you can take gravity readings of your mash after around a week and if you get the same reading for 2 or 3 days in a row then you know fermentation is complete. A hydrometer is a device that tells you specific gravity and alcohol percentage of a liquid. It is not necessary to have one in the beginning however can be a useful tool especially for knowing the alcohol percentage of your finished moonshine.
You will need separate ones however for testing your mash and moonshine one can test low alcoholic percentage and another can test high. Now you have your mash fermented and it should be around percent alcohol depending on what kind of yeast you used.
Distillation separates the alcohol in the mash from the water. If you are at this point unsure how distillation works or how a still itself works please read this page.
If you have a properly made still if you need a still please read this still guide then you are ready to go, all you need is a source of heat. The process is pretty simple. However it is also going to be made as easy as possible for folks to do at home so there will be some differences in how this will be made compared to how some professional moonshiners would do it simply because it would be too difficult for homemade purposes.
Brother Possum advised me that the rye malt I was using would not convert the corn, at least efficiently. I wound up with 12 gallons of 1. So far it really doesn't look like its going to thin down to a sugar wash. Can I add water either now or after ferment and let it settle? The amount of alcohol would stay the same just lower abv. I wouldn't mind it being thick and stirring till boil but I have yet to cut the top out of my keg.
If you let it set long enough it will settle. Probably does contribute to the flavor. Maybe good maybe bad. Looks like suspended yeast and grain fines to me. If it was easy everybody would do it. Post by possum » Tue Feb 07, pm GoldenPond, I don't know if one part has more ethanol than the other, but I have taken my thick mashes, and run through a strainer or coarse cloth bag. Then I rinse the grain to get the fermented liquid out of the mash. I do this when I am not distilling on the grain.
Just one method that has worked for me. Frank » Wed Feb 08, am Well, since alcohol is lighter then water I'd guess that most of the alcohol is at the top of the wash. I do skim down to the mash line but not any further. I am getting kind of tired of corn though, I'd like to try using rye flour and see if I could get some kind or rye whiskey. My buddy wants me to make up some more rum too, he thought it was pretty good and I thought so too , if I say so myself.
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